Pearl Islands
It’s a great name – the Pearl Islands – but, on a quick visit, they aren’t quite as special as the name would suggest. They are a bunch of wild islands, sparsely inhabited by quite poor people. and we have been offered no Pearls for sale! There is a rugged unspoilt beauty to them, completely uncommercialised and probably only visited by yachts at this time of year.
On arrival at the anchorage we chose from the pilot book the water turned out to be much too shallow. The sun was starting to go down so we quickly looked for another spot, As we did so the wind shot up suddenly to 25 knots or more making our need to find shelter even more impelling. Fortunately there was a good looking spot on the Isand of Pedro Gonzalez about an hour away and it turned out to be a good place. This strong wind, coming from an unseasonal direction created havoc for most of the rally boats still at anchor in Panama. Apparently two boats hit each other, others dragged anchors and some upped anchor in the middle of the night to find shelter.
We spent two nights at the spot which had more sea birds than you could ever imagine. The waters seemed alive with fish, incredible when you see how many birds were about. There is a good video of the birds which I will blog asap. Only downside was the abundance of jellyfish with nasty looking tentacles – so no swimming!
After that we moved on to Isle de Rey to a bay where a small river empties out into the sea. It was great walking up the river bed although we had to get back quickly as the tide was coming in. Later Joanna and I went up the river in the dinghy and were motoring up to 3 metres above where we were walking earlier. This small river looked so different full of water with the mangroves dripping their feet in the sea and colourful birds flying in the jungle treetops.
On the morning of the 27th word spread quickly about the earthquake in Chile and the possibility of a tsunami. Everyone put to sea as news came in. The tidal wave never appeared thankfully, the sea was flat calm, but it was good to see the network of boats supporting each other with information. We moved up to join most of the rest of the fleet at Mogu Mogu (so good they named it twice)! Freddie from Miss Tippy came on board much to Eddie’s delight and spent the night. Sozzie went to Miss Tippy for a sleep over – so a bit of a swop!
I put on my scuba gear and set to work cleaning the hull. Had a fright when there was a sudden pop and air came shooting out of the back pack. I felt myself sinking. The back pack is quite heavy with weights in it which are compensated by a bouyancy bag. The air seemed to be coming from it. Swimming as fast as I could to the back of the boat I swallowed sea water and have to admit I thought I may not make it. I reached down to undo the clips to jettison the back pack and had undone two of the three as I thankfully reached the boarding ladder. Instant headache and shaky which a cup of tea put right.
Putting that behind me Joanna and I went off visiting other boats (without the kids) which is something we can’t normally easily do with the children. It brought it home how different this experience would be if we were not with small children. We had some wine on Spirit of Nina and beer on Blue Magic before coming back to a superb Shepherd’s Pie which David and Sue had cooked.
After being away for 7 months you start to really miss things. The environment we are in is easily taken for granted and the things we are missing are starting to wear on us. At times even feeling deprived. So what are they:
Family
Friends
Personal space – you are never alone.
School (the shared learning and friendships) – would be so good for Eddie and Sozzie and they are really missing that experience.
Being Still
Worrying about water use
Worrying about the boat!
Bacon
Fresh Milk
Salad and fresh vegetables – yes really!
Bread – Ok we make some but it doesn’t compare to the choice in Tesco bakery of rolls, cakes, and goodies.
Heat – it is too hot, what I would give for a cold night where you could snuggle under the duvet!
Our life at home!
All to be expected of course but still has to be endured.
Sozzie says to me every day that she wants to go back to England, didn’t want to sail around the world, even sobbing in tears at times. Generally she is quite happy, but that underlies it. That is the hardest problem I have to deal with – by comparison the sailing and boat are a breeze.
Glad to see that you missed the tsunami as it appears to have wreaked havoc in Chile. Read Daves blog about the Panama canal and the sight of those huge cargo ships and tankers reminds us of #he time we sailed up Southampton water on a night sail for rcomp crew qual four years ago! Plastic gives way to steel.
We met Dave and Sue on our flotilla sail in the Greek island in September 2008- or was it Octpber? either way it seems like yesterday and look forward to hearing of their escapades on their return and we promise ont to be bored .Sounds far to exciting for that and I have no doubt that Sue s sheperds pie was the greatest
They are actually on a mission for Sailing Holidays as Dave is for lead crew and Sue is angling for the job as Hostie ! ! !
We will continue to read your blog with great interest
best wishes to all and have a safe passage
Pat and Brian (Misson)
You should not have hassled those pelicans How are Sue & Dave? Tell them it is still very cold in the village as elsewhere in most of UK.