Where we are now…

•April 7, 2010 • 4 Comments

I realised that there are lots of people reading the blog who don’t know what has happened to us. So now it’s time to update you.

Well, we came back from the Galapagos on the 24th March and the next day I went to an Acute Medical Unit at East Surrey Hospital. They were very good and I underwent two days of tests. Unfortunately they could find nothing wrong with me! All looks good (but obviously isn’t).

I was given new medication as the doctors in Ecuador thought that I must have had some kind of fit, they said the damage was too great to my brain and if I had had a stoke I would be paralysed. That wasn’t the view of the consultant here who said it is definitely a stroke (we agree) and took me off the anti convulsive medicines. It was lucky my brain is healthy and I’m “relatively” young so that I recovered incredibly quickly. In fact it only took a few minutes for one part of my brain to take over the role of moving hands, arms, speech etc that was being done by a part now damaged so that it will not regenerate.

Next test is on the 14th April to see if there is some kind of hole in my heart through which blood clots could pass. The other likely alternative is that I have sticky blood which clots easily. That is a better result as it can be treated with blood thinning drugs and not surgery…

Anyway, we are spending our time visiting family and friends who are being incredibly supportive and helpful as we are homeless at the moment. We are mainly staying at Joanna’s parents house, David and Sheila, who have been superb in putting us up (and putting up with us)!

The consultant at the hospital has advised that we do not go back to join the Rally. He suggests that we need a period of 6 months to do all the tests and settle on a medicine program which works. That leaves lots of questions to answer, but the last thing I want is to leave Joanna in control of a boat on her own with two little kiddies and a paralysed husband rolling around…

So we are unsure what we are going to do although we shall have to make decisions fairly quickly as children’s schooling for next term needs to be decided.

RAINING IN THE GALAPAGOS

•March 22, 2010 • 1 Comment

It’s raining in the Galapagos
I’m sitting on a cruise boat
The rain is equatorially heavy
It beats a wooden note

The animals are not bothered
They are used to it here
It’s only us meek humans
Who show the rain some fear

There’s writing on the hillside
Left by sailors long ago
The writing is in snowy white
From a distance it doth show

Those long dead sailors
Climbed up the sheerest fall
To scribe their boat name, way up high
So that forever it will call.

A STROKE IN THE GALAPAGOS

•March 22, 2010 • 1 Comment

We were out for a meal,
On a sweaty night.
The meal was fine,
But we had quite a fright.

My hand stopped working,
and then my arm.
My face was contorted,
I’d suffered some serious harm

I fell on the floor,
and there I lie.
While I told my wife, in slurred words
I was afraid I might die.

I said remember me,
give each of my children my love,
as I prepared myself,
for heaven above.

Lady luck played her part,
This was not the end of my days.
But a shocking fright,
I was in quite a daze.

We flew on to Ecuador,
The very next day,
For some scans and treatment,
And to see what they might say.

I can’t believe, that this has happened to me,
I’m fit, don’t smoke, and want to be free
Of the worry that a stroke,
has brought to my family. (really sorry girls, so far away!)

With God willing, this thing,
will just pass away.
With the right drugs,
and care, ALIVE I will stay!

Guayaquil

•March 17, 2010 • 1 Comment

This is where we have been while in hospital. It seems like a prosperous town, wide roads, lots of traffic and the prices in the shops quite high.

We were released from hospital too late to catch a plane yesterday but booked one for this morning. Unfortunately we missed the plane! The flight was delayed, but we kept looking at the departures board. Other planes had passengers called on the board but not ours. I went off to book my return flights to England and then Joanna realised that the plane was boarding. Apparently they had been calling out the boarding details – but hey – we don´ta speaka da spanisha, and so misseda the plane. It was sitting on the tarmac outside still connected to the gate for half an hour but they still wouldn´t let us get on it. Hey ho! Booked on one for tomorrow.

We went to the cinema this afternoon. Saw a film with Sandra Bullock (nice looking lady), who took in a homeless black kid who went on to be a USA Football star. It was entertaining although the environment was cold. They had the AC turned up high and so was like sitting in a fridge, not that I´ve ever sat in a fridge, but I´ve got a good imagination. Come on, you can imagine that too? Can you imagin what it is like putting your head in a washing machine and microwave at the same time, no, have an MRI scan then!

There was some uncertainty regarding our boat cruise around the islands up to this morning. Apparently the company we all paid money (in full) to last September have not paid the boat company and the whole thing was uncertain up to a few minutes ago. Chris and Mark on Blue Magic have taken the children on board and we hope to join them tomorrow (whever they are by then)!

I´ve booked my flights home. I get back midnight on the 24th returning to Galapagos on the 2nd April.

SAILING TO GALAPAGOS – DOLPHINS JUMPING

•March 17, 2010 • Leave a Comment

A couple of videos and if you look closely you can see how high they were jumping. They were having such fun showing off to us. The videos also give you a good idea of the movement and sounds of the boat at sea.

Also a video of the fish market with interesting animal antics!

Also a video of the crossing the line party with some interesting human antics!

GALAPAGOS – I HAD A STROKE!

•March 16, 2010 • 4 Comments

We arrived in these special islands with a big list of jobs to do on the boat. Amongst other things the Watermaker was not working, VHF not working, Generator cutting out, Chartplotter losing connection and of course the fire damage and worry about fixing things related to that.

I made up a list of jobs to do which stretched to two A4 pages and started to tick them off. It is very hot and on Saturday morning I started at about 5.30am to sort out the Generator. It involved dismantling the stairs, which needed emptying and cleaning as I did so. There was a lot of powder from the fire extinguisher spread about which needed cleaning off.  I spent a fair bit of time head down into the bilges, but did what I needed to do and got the Generator fired up and working well. Then I proceeded to sort out the aft shower pump which was not doing its job properly.  I was in the engine room for this which was  hot from ambient heat and the Generator running. Got it going though!

Jo, Eddie, Sozzie and I walked through the town in the daytime – the sun was out and it was a scorcher! Buckets of sweat … yugh! When we got back to the boat I carried on with my list of jobs in one of my head down moods – trying to get things done! I guess I was overdoing it.

In the evening Joanna and I escaped for a meal on our own, children being babysat by David and Sue on the boat. After our meal we were in a shop choosing some T shirts for family back home when I dropped one that was in a plastic bag. It was most odd as I couldn´t feel it. I bent down and tried again, but my arm was all limp and I had no sensation in it at all. I turned to Jo and said I think I´m having a stroke. She thought I was joking at first as apparently my face was all mishapen. I was slurring my words. I thought that this is it, here is where I die. All I could think about was a wish to cuddle my girls, Eddie and Sozzie and to tell them I love them before I went. I had a sense of loss. Felt like the world was going to go on and I was going to be left behind…

Jo hailed a taxi which took us to the local hospital, which was quite small with no significant facilities. They tested my blood pressure which was 160 over 80 – too high and gave me a tablet to lower it.

We stayed in a hotel that night so we could get away to the airport early to catch a plane to the nearest city where a major hospital was. Guayaquil is the City and Kennedy is the hospital name. A local doctor gave me a special letter which meant the airline was obliged to give us a seat if there was one free. Thankfully there was.

The Kennedy hospital was very good. I was seen immediately by a Consultant and had a Cat scan that night. Next day had an MRI scan and a Consultant Neurologist became involved. He is not convinced by the scans. He said the scar tissue and damage to my brain means I should be paralysed down my left side.  He thinks the stroke I had on Saturday was like an aftershock to previous damage. At least we were able to confirm that it was not a heamorrage or a tumour. In fact my brain looks quite healthy, to me anyway!

Tomorrow we are supposed to be starting a cruise around the Galapagos on a charter boat with the other Rally members. They have been marvellous in looking after the children while we are away. Particuarly of mention are Mark and Christine on Blue Magic and Sheila on Miss Tippy. However, the Rally representatives out here, Tony and Christine Diment, were superb. Particulary when we woke them on Saturday night with the bad news. Of course, David and Sue Tranter, who have been with us since Panama were landed with a lot of extra babysitting and a huge thanks to them for manning the pumps.

Such an odd thing to have this stroke. I always thought they happen to old people (and perhaps that is right)! I have been told that I was probably overdoing it, over stressed. Well, this trip has been hard work, and the storm, fire and constant worries about my family (missing the girls so very much) and the boat have taken their toll. I have to take it easier in the future – somehow.

Right now we are in an airport hotel waiting for our flight tomorrow. We are not sure of plans at present. I will probably try and fly home next week to see a consultant and get a proper diagnosis and medical plan. Also to give the girls some long overdue hugs and kisses. Thanks for all the texts of support. Sorry if we worried you.

Jo here, don´t worry Dave is back to normal now, the nurses treated him like a prize specimen with lots of giggles and hand gestures, most of them only reached up to his waist!! We are desparate to get back to Galapagos now and need to make some plans….. In fact one of them wanted to take me in the shower and wash me. I politely declined!

A huge thanks to all people who have sent good wishes and texts of support. It is much appreciated. I send my love to one and all!

PEARL ISLANDS TO GALAPAGOS

•March 6, 2010 • 3 Comments

As the sun went down and the night turned to black I had a terrible sense of dread. I’ve never quite had anything like it before. I was sweating, felt sick, ran to the toilet! This was the first night at sea since that terrible night off the Colombian coast and that had to be it. Was it a fear of putting us all at risk, of experiencing that hell again? It was a shock to me realising I was feeling this way – pure emotion coming to the fore.

We were sailing well being carried out by a fair tide when there was a roaring and the boat started to jump and splash around. We were going through a tidal race like you do around headlands back home – but we were in the middle of the sea! The charplotter showed nothing around and I even checked the radar in case the chartplotter/gps had got it all wrong. The sea actually roared at us and as it was pitch black all we had was sound and motion, really odd and not very nice! However, we were where we thought we were and the tidal race was just one of those odd things you sometimes experience at sea.

The moon came up, I chatted to Mark on Blue Magic and his eternal optimism made me feel better. I couldn’t believe that I had really had such worried feelings from out of the blue.

David and Sue did their 3 hour watches and I came back on as the new day dawned. Starting the generator to recharge batteries I was puzzled when it cut out. I restarted it and it cut out again. This is a real worry as the generator is essential for making water. Reaching for the manual we worked out that the fault was overheating. I cleaned out the water inlet filters and restarted the machine. Sadly it cut out again. I then set to work to take out the impellor, which sucks in water to the generator. That involved having my head down into the bilges, in very sweaty heat, reaching into a very hot machine and undoing the water pump – while the boat rocked around! Good job I am not prone to seasickness now!

Thankfully it was the impellor and I had a spare. After a lot of fiddle I put it all back together and it worked! Quite satisfying in the end.

There was a warning that this part of the world is often windless. No one told that to the wind which kept blowing, often over 20 knots, which is faster than we need! So we haven’t had to motor so far.

Today, suddenly. something dramatic and scary happened. All crew apart from me were on deck when an alarm on the helm went off. I thought it might be the fire alarm in the engine room and rushed round to look. As I did I smelt smoke. The engine wasn’t running although the generator was. There was smoke in the engine room.

I came back to the main saloon and the smoke was increasing rapidly. It was coming out of the floorboards at the bottom of the steps. I lifted them up to be confronted with fire. Fire on board a boat is the worst possible danger. You have nowhere to go. The wood, varnish and then fuel make short work of a boat when ignited. The flames are etched on my mind. I can see wires and a black flame, the toungues reaching up to me. I turned and Jo had in her hands a fire extinguisher. Super wife!

Your mind works at double speed at times like this and I was already going through abandon ship procedures and emergency mayday calls as I pulled the safety clip off the fire extinguisher. Thankfully it worked instantly and the fire was out in seconds. Smoke and acrid dust from the extinguisher filled the cabin but the air soon changed. It was frankly a horrible experience. Perhaps this was what I was dreading with that fear on the first night?!?

It looks like it was the emergency bilge pump, but difficult to know for sure as it is so far down. Who would expect that to burn. That is there for emergencies not to create one! I’m sure Discovery Yachts will want to know what caused this. The wiring is only 2 years old and should be perfect.

Blue Magic, Raylah and Jackamy all changed course to come closer to us. Good to have friends close by. We are now sailing in a small convoy. If anything else happens help will be with us within an hour.

I spoke with Joanna. We think 24 or so days at sea across the Pacific will be too much for the little ones crammed up in the boat. I don’t want to endanger them. So she may come home with the children (great news for all her famiily and friends) for that period.

Pearl Islands

•February 28, 2010 • 2 Comments

Here’s a couple of videos. The birds were amazing!

It’s a great name – the Pearl Islands – but, on a quick visit, they aren’t quite as special as the name would suggest. They are a bunch of wild islands, sparsely inhabited by quite poor people. and we have been offered no Pearls for sale! There is a rugged unspoilt beauty to them, completely uncommercialised and probably only visited by yachts at this time of year.

On arrival at the anchorage we chose from the pilot book the water turned out to be much too shallow. The sun was starting to go down so we quickly looked for another spot, As we did so the wind shot up suddenly to 25 knots or more making our need to find shelter even more impelling. Fortunately there was a good looking spot on the Isand of Pedro Gonzalez about an hour away and it turned out to be a good place. This strong wind, coming from an unseasonal direction created havoc for most of the rally boats still at anchor in Panama. Apparently two boats hit each other, others dragged anchors and some upped anchor in the middle of the night to find shelter.

We spent two nights at the spot which had more sea birds than you could ever imagine. The waters seemed alive with fish, incredible when you see how many birds were about. There is a good video of the birds which I will blog asap. Only downside was the abundance of jellyfish with nasty looking tentacles – so no swimming!

After that we moved on to Isle de Rey to a bay where a small river empties out into the sea. It was great walking up the river bed although we had to get back quickly as the tide was coming in. Later Joanna and I went up the river in the dinghy and were motoring up to 3 metres above where we were walking earlier. This small river looked so different full of water with the mangroves dripping their feet in the sea and colourful birds flying in the jungle treetops.

On the morning of the 27th word spread quickly about the earthquake in Chile and the possibility of a tsunami. Everyone put to sea as news came in. The tidal wave never appeared thankfully, the sea was flat calm, but it was good to see the network of boats supporting each other with information. We moved up to join most of the rest of the fleet at Mogu Mogu (so good they named it twice)! Freddie from Miss Tippy came on board much to Eddie’s delight and spent the night. Sozzie went to Miss Tippy for a sleep over – so a bit of a swop!

I put on my scuba gear and set to work cleaning the hull. Had a fright when there was a sudden pop and air came shooting out of the back pack. I felt myself sinking. The back pack is quite heavy with weights in it which are compensated by a bouyancy bag. The air seemed to be coming from it. Swimming as fast as I could to the back of the boat I swallowed sea water and have to admit I thought I may not make it. I reached down to undo the clips to jettison the back pack and had undone two of the three as I thankfully reached the boarding ladder. Instant headache and shaky which a cup of tea put right.

Putting that behind me Joanna and I went off visiting other boats (without the kids) which is something we can’t normally easily do with the children. It brought it home how different this experience would be if we were not with small children. We had some wine on Spirit of Nina and beer on Blue Magic before coming back to a superb Shepherd’s Pie which David and Sue had cooked.

After being away for 7 months you start to really miss things. The environment we are in is easily taken for granted and the things we are missing are starting to wear on us. At times even feeling deprived. So what are they:

Family
Friends
Personal space – you are never alone.
School (the shared learning and friendships) – would be so good for Eddie and Sozzie and they are really missing that experience.
Being Still
Worrying about water use
Worrying about the boat!
Bacon
Fresh Milk
Salad and fresh vegetables – yes really!
Bread – Ok we make some but it doesn’t compare to the choice in Tesco bakery of rolls, cakes, and goodies.
Heat – it is too hot, what I would give for a cold night where you could snuggle under the duvet!
Our life at home!

All to be expected of course but still has to be endured.

Sozzie says to me every day that she wants to go back to England, didn’t want to sail around the world, even sobbing in tears at times. Generally she is quite happy, but that underlies it. That is the hardest problem I have to deal with – by comparison the sailing and boat are a breeze.

PANAMA TO THE PEARL ISLANDS

•February 24, 2010 • Leave a Comment

Firstly a huge thanks to David for writing that last blog. It’s good to have a different perspective (and for someone else to share the work)!

While in Panama we left a bag in a taxi and it had Jo’s camera, my nice lense and other bits and pieces in it. Shame but our own fault!

Casting off from the Balboa Yacht Club moorings we left a hot and sultry Panama behind. Reflecting on it you see an amazing cityscape which hides as all cities do a mixture of life. There were some horrible slums on display, run down and smashed up tenement blocks, but without many saving graces. Interesting to see but I wouldn’t put it on the list of places you must go with the exception of the canal because of its historic and geopolitical importance.

Panama was, however, great for its supermarkets and we have loaded up with over 6 very full trolley loads of groceries. The boat was being carpeted with showers of dust like black ash and the hull has absorbed layers of oil and mess from the passing boats. We were pleased to get away.

We have come over to the Pearl Islands (Las Perlas) which have a sad and bloody history. Apparently when the Spanish came here they captured 15 of the 16 local chiefs and fed them alive to dogs. The remaining chief handed over a large basket containing Pearls. The Spanish thought this was good so they killed the chief and all the native people and brought in slaves from Africa to dive for the pearls – nice eh? So don’t worry too much if Francis Drake and our pirates took them from the Spanish later on!

One of the pearls ended up being owned by Elizabeth the First and is shown in paintings of her. This pearl has now found itself in the hands of Elizabeth Taylor after Richard Burton (to whom she was married twice) bought it for her!

There are still pearls here and we are going to see if we can buy one – just a small one!

PANAMA CANAL

•February 24, 2010 • Leave a Comment

Here’s a couple of videos from the canal passage!

This blog was written by David Tranter who is sailing with us to Galapagos with Sue his wife. It is unabridged and unedited!

After one day of shore mains power so air conditioning on the boat at Shelter Bay Marina we left to start our transit of the Canal around 4pm 11 Feb. Yachts go though rafted up, i.e. usually three boats fastened together with two line handlers on each of the outer boats to make sure there’s no colliding with the lock!

We started off like that as we approached the lock with our pilot on board, then a change of plan and we went through the first flight of three locks, going up around 85 ft in total, alongside an old tourist boat, allegedly once owned by Al Capone! By then it was dark and we made our way a little distance down the lake which follows onto a big mooring buoy along with other yachts in the vicinity.

At 5.30 the next morning we were up to wait for our next pilot – who arrived an hour later. Meanwhile we had listened to howler monkeys a really scary sound – and watched the dawn. Then off down the lake through rain forests and Jungle which then turns
in the the canal channel. Very odd to be going down an inland lake with huge container ships going the other way.

Around midday we came to the next sets of locks – a pair followed by a single lock a mile later then out into the Pacific having been rafted up with two other boats through the locks. Overall an amazing experience. Thanks to the intervention of our pilot we managed to get onto a mooring buoy – i.e. we’re fastened on to a concrete block on the sea bed – in a small marina. So much better than an anchor, when you always have the slight worry that it might drag.

We’re right next to the shipping channel so there is a steady procession of huge commercial vessels only a few feet away, plus the odd cruise ship. Most make very little wash – just occasionally something goes bump in the night!

Our arrival co-incided with Carnival so we went to see what happens on a couple of nights. Saturday was the start and was really quite low key but by Tuesday evening there was much more on the go – quite a few floats, marching bands, loads of people dancing in the main street – Via Espana – everyone throwing confetti, consisting of hole punch roundels – which, when you’re hot
and sticky – which is all the time in this climate – sticks to you like nothing! Also aerosols of foam and other stuff, loads of things to eat and
drink – copious beer stalls – 75c per can – we left before it got too rowdy – which it inevitably was going to! So different to how any such an event would happen in the UK – imagine a street for a parade with floats etc with no crash barriers to keep people of the actual street!

Other things we’ve done while we’ve been here include the inevitable jobs to do with a boat which is going long distances – provisioning – in a mega way – the next chance will probably be in Fiji so every possible space is going to end up full of bottles, tins, packets and cartons – enough to feed a family of four which has currently grown to six, will go up to seven then to five over the next 2-3 months. Also there have been things to mend and get mended – including sails and cleaning and maintenance which can only really be done when close to major facilities and a marina – again the next real chance for this will be when the boat reaches Australia, which will be July

Even a chance to have showers and do washing on shore. Although there are these facilities on board – even a washing machine – it’s easier than at sea when we are reliant on a watermaker/desalinator plant (made in Romsey)

We have however managed to see some of the sights in and around Panama City – a city of tremendous contrasts – an amazing cityscape to rival New York and Chicago – but significant slum dwellings but a number of shopping malls to rival those we’ve seen in California. We visited the old town- a combination of old colonial buildings and squares, some urban regeneration and slums, various waterfront locations, the Smithsonian Marine Institute, a huge Metropolitan Park – which is basically a rain forest close to the city centre with trails running through. We also had an excursion to a rain forest resort in the middle of the isthmus – a ride in a cable car at rooftop height through the forest – lake beside the Chagres river, close by crocodiles and turtles.

We’ve seen a range of other different wild-life, though you have to either be up early or around at dusk to see much. We have however seen howler monkeys, sloths, iguanas, a porcupine, many butterflies and birds as well as the varied fauna of the rain forests. It’s nearing the beginning of the rainy season, which starts in about six weeks time. Despite this everywhere is still surprisingly green.

We plan to leave here on Tuesday after yet more provisioning, taking on as much water and fuel as possible, then to the Las Perlas islands – for something completely different – very few are inhabited and hopefully it’ll be blue seas and beautiful scenery – then off to the Galapagos reaching there around 9 March.

 
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